The Presidio
San Francisco, CA
The Presidio of San Francisco is, in many ways, even better
than Golden Gate Park. It is:- almost 50% larger ... 1491 acres versus 1017 acres
- more historically interesting ... with an impressive military history starting in 1776
- feels less crowded ... yet includes over 800 buildings and beautiful modern redevelopments
- has more natural beauty ... including miles of wild but accessible coast line.
History
Historically, el Presidio was the northernmost military outpost of New Spain (Mexico), settled in 1776 along with Mission San Francisco de Asis (Mission Delores). It served continuously as a military post from 1776 until 1994 when it became a national park.The National Park Service still manages the coastal 20% of the lands. The Presidio Trust, established by Congress in 1996, manages the interior 80% including about 800 buildings and other manmade features. The Trust's mandate is to enhance the Presidio as a public resource while making it financially self sufficient (accomplished by 2005).
Lyon Street Steps
Lyon Street runs north and south along the east side of the Presidio. The portion between Broadway St and Vallejo St is the Lyon Street Steps, one of the most magical spots in San Francisco and indeed the world. Don't miss this if you are anywhere near the east side of the Presidio.Lincoln Blvd tour
Lincoln Blvd gives you access to several interesting parts of the San Francisco Presidio. Heading west on Hwy 101 at Lombard/Broderick we recommend you take the left hand turn to stay on Lombard St. Continue west on Lombard for a couple of blocks to the Presidio's Lombard St Gate at Lombard St/Lyon St.After the gate veer right on Letterman Drive and then veer right again on Lincoln Blvd. Keep staying on Lincoln Blvd as it twists and turns through the rest of the park. Whenever appropriate find a place to park and take some of the many side trips described below.
The Letterman Digital Arts Center, northwest of Lombard/Letterman Dr, was redeveloped by George Lucas Films from the 23 acre Letterman Hospital site. The Center includes beautifully landscaped public walkways, a Starbucks coffee shop, and a few restaurants. We like to walk north through the public park, then walk across Hwy 101 at the Lyon St stoplight, and through the Palace of Fine Arts area. You'll find many a pleasant bench, grassy knoll, and view to enjoy.
Letterman Arts Center buildings
Letterman Arts Center looking south across park
Continuing west on Lincoln Blvd, immediately after Lincoln Blvd/Graham St notice the Main Post grand parade grounds to your left (i.e., northwest). Drive to the south end of the long central parade area where you will find the Officer's Club which contains a Visitor Center and historical book store. These grounds have been the center of much military history for over 200 years starting in 1776; check out the 325 lb cannon balls, the tallest flag post in SF, and signs nearby about General Pershing's house and the original Spanish military post. At the Visitor Center you can ask the park ranger any questions and obtain a free printed map detailing many of the Presidio's attractions.
If you want an inexpensive snack check out the Bowling Center adjacent the tennis courts west of the Officer's Club. They have a good grill and we will sometimes sit on the steps out front with our dog to enjoy the view while eating. If you want something more formal and expensive, La Terrasse at the north end of the parade grounds, behind the post office & bank has a very nice setting & patio; however the food & service are marginal.
As the free printed map shows there is a very pleasant Ecology Trail loop starting behind the Officer's Club (also behind Bldg 42 at Moraga/Funston) which climbs south to Inspiration Point Overlook. This Trail is great for walking your dog and getting an inspirational view :).
If you are a golfer, the Presidio Golf Course Clubhouse/Presidio Cafe, located across the street from Inspiration Point Overlook, provides a nice view of the pleasant 18-hole course. The driving range & putting green are nearby as well. Teddy Roosevelt, Dwight Eisenhower, Bing Crosby and Arnold Palmer have all played these historic links.
Now, go back on Lincoln Blvd which takes a quick short right and meanders west past the beautiful San Francisco National Cemetery, 1 Lincoln Blvd, on the left. Some 30,000 American soldiers are buried here including Civil War Generals, Buffalo Soldiers, and over 30 Medal of Honor recipients.
After passing the cemetery watch the street signs, turn left, and be sure to always stay on Lincoln Blvd. Otherwise you may get lost at the many tricky intersections. Go under the heavy Golden Gate traffic overhead on Doyle Dr and then stop to see the new Crissey Field Overlook, off Lincoln Blvd near the Crissey Field Ave intersection.
From here Lincoln Blvd now roughly follows the coastline and goes back under Doyle Drive near the Golden Gate Toll Plaza. You can find parking lots on either side of the Golden Gate Bridge (completed 1937) and then walk to the Roundhouse Gift Center on the southeast side.
From the Gift Center, which is basically a tourist trap, you can walk across the Golden Gate Bridge (1.7 miles across one way). Or, you can walk to the Fort Point Overlook located off the southeast parking lot to see the old fort immediately under the bridge.
From Golden Gate Bridge head southwest on Lincoln Blvd and quickly turn into one of the parking lots on the right hand side to see some of many old gun emplacements. There are several nearby with good ocean views.
Batteries to Bluffs trail headed north from Battery Godfrey
Next drive continue on Lincoln past Lincoln/Merchant Rd. There is a small turnoff right at Lincoln/Langdon Ct where you can park near the Battery Godfrey Vista. You will notice on the left side as you go in a sign for the Batteries to Bluff's walking Trail. It goes up and down the bluffs & past Marshall Beach for a distance of about .7 miles one way. This trail eventually ends up at the top of Battery Crosby. Proceed to Lincoln Blvd/Battery Crosby Rd. From here where you can take a less rigorous walk along Lincoln Blvd back to your car.
Or, if you proceed about half a block further south from Lincoln/Battery Crosby Rd you'll see a marked cross walk crossing Lincoln and heading up the hill via new stair steps. Immigrant Point Outlook on Washington Blvd is at the top. After admiring the view head back north on Washington Blvd to the starting point of the Batteries and Bluffs Trail. By the way, this loop does require some climbing but is worth the effort.
Now get in your car again and head further south on Lincoln Blvd until you see the exit for Baker Beach on your right. Drive down to the shoreline where you will find one of SF's best beaches for sun bathing and for picturesque views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Sometimes you can see big 20 foot waves offshore, dolphins, pelicans, and sea lions. At the north end of the beach clothing is optional (actually it's supposedly illegal but the old fat nude dudes don't agree) so you will probably see other novel sights as well.
View of Baker Beach looking south from the Batteries to Bluffs
trail. The expensive Sea Cliff residential district can be seen
at the south end of the beach through the mist .
Steep "sand ladder" going down to Baker Beach from
Lincoln Blvd
Golden Gate Promenade
Beginning of the promenade trail just west of Marina Yacht harbor.
Continue west for about 1.7 miles (one way) to Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge. You'll find as you walk a variety of attractions including:
- Crissey Field -- Was one of the U.S. Army Air Service's most important airfields in the 1920s. Crissey Field was involved in several air milestones including the beginning of both the U.S. Air Mail service and night flying. It has now been restored to 100 acres of native dunes, marshes & native plants ... similar to when the original Ohlone Indian natives used the area for gathering grounds.
- World class wind & kite surfing - They take off from Crissey Field and sail out towards the Golden Gate Bridge.
- Torpedo wharf fishing pier & the Warming Hut -- Licenses are not required for fishing or crabbing at Torpedo Wharf. The Warming Hut & Bookstore is oriented more for tourists.
- Golden Gate Bridge -- A little past the Warming Hut, across Marine Drive you will see a signed walk up to Golden Gate Bridge. This is an optional walk.
- Fort Point -- Bear right and walk along Marine Drive on to Fort Point, located immediately under Golden Gate Bridge. Inside the fort is very interesting. It was completed just in time for the 1861 Civil War but quickly became obsolete when rifled cannons were developed which could easily blast holes through its masonry. Inside were 126 cannons to protect the Bay; however, no shots were ever fired in combat. By the way, this part of the walk can get cold if the weather is cool.
Conclusion
The Presidio of San Francisco is blessed with great natural beauty & weather. Plus, during the last 10 years, intelligent management plus substantial private donations have helped it become one of the most beautiful, interesting, and accessible parks in the world. These changes are well worth checking out, especially for locals who haven't been there for a while.Back from The Presidio SF to Best San Francisco Things to Do home
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