Half Moon Bay, California
best things to see & do on the coast

Near Half Moon Bay, CA, are many pleasant, rural, green & ocean blue places to get away from it all. Below are some of the best things we've found to see and do as you drive south from San Francisco down the amazingly beautiful Pacific coast.

To help research your sightseeing trip you might want to also check out:

• Map of things to see & do around HMB.
• Trails & beaches writeup about HMB trails & beaches.
• Map of beaches & trails along HMB coastline.
• Pictures taken along the HMB coast.

Montara, CA

This 3000 person community looks & feels like what you would expect from a small, beautiful, very remote coastal town. Yet, it's only a short 20 mile commute south of San Francisco. Soon Montara will become even more convenient when the new Devil's Slide tunnel is completed in 2011.

Here are some neat things to do in Montara:

• Stroll the streets on the hill west of Cabrillo Hwy -- Montara is mainly houses which are typically pleasant, quiet, and homey with natural landscaping and beautiful but unobtrusive ocean views. Just walking around is a nice way to relax with your spouse and dog :).
• Local restaurants, There are 3-4 small eating places and a gas station in Montara but few other businesses. Cafe Lucca, one of previous favorites, recently re-opened at a less interesting location,8465 Cabrillo Hwy, but with a bigger menu.

• Montara State Beach, 2d St/Cabrillo Hwy -- Just to the north of town is a lovely state beach. Dogs are allowed on leash. About a mile further north is the more secluded Gray Whale Cove State Beach which is popular with nude sunbathers on warm days.
• Point Montara Light House, 16th St/Cabrillo Hwy -- To the south of town is a stunning little lighthouse. This rugged, dramatic, secluded setting is now being used as a hostel. You can walk around the historic lighthouse grounds, established in 1875 after more than 90 vessels had run aground, and investigate the small hidden beach cove below with its interesting rocks pools. Just sitting on the bluff bench overlooking the ocean is an experience to remember.

Moss Beach

The Fitzgerald Marine Preserve, 200 Nevada Ave, is headquartered here. At low tide this regular looking beach becomes a tide pool wonderland of sea critters and plants. See tide information for best times to come. You can also call the fishfone, 650-726-8724, at Pillar Point Harbor in Princeton for recorded information on the day's tides.

A local landmark is the Moss Beach Distillery, 140 Beach Way, which is "haunted" by its own Blue Lady ghost. It started as a prohibition speakeasy in 1927 and the foggy beach below provided cover for boats bringing in bootleg liquor for San Francisco. The view here is excellent however food is marginal and a bit pricey. On a nice warm day, however, we enjoy the dog friendly outdoor deck with its fire pits and pub grill.

Pillar Point Marsh, Beach, & Bluffs

This pleasing natural area is located immediately west of Princeton-by-the-Sea and southwest of the Half Moon Bay Airport. Once you get into Princeton Harbor work your way west along the coast, on Princeton Ave through a small industrial area, until you get to West Point Ave. The Pillar Point Marsh parking lot is at the west end of West Point Ave.

• Pillar Point Marsh -- This is a tiny preserve where a fresh water marsh and brackish salt water marsh come together. Birds and bird watchers love it here and spotted over 151 species of birds. You can walk along the marsh's beach front easterly back to Princeton Harbor.
• Pillar Point Beach -- Take a pleasant half mile walk south along the wide dirt trail under the bluffs to Pillar Point. When the tide is low you can walk much further out on to the ocean floor; however, it is slick and rough this is not particularly recommended.
• Pillar Point Bluffs -- Mavericks, one of the most famous and deadly big wave breaks in the U.S., is about a half mile off shore and a little too far north to see from Pillar Point Beach. However, you can see its location from Pillar Point Bluffs. From the parking lot cross West Point Ave, climb up the fire road, and bear left to get to the top of the steep bluffs. They overlook Mavericks and several beaches below which are part of the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve. If you continue walking northwest over pretty bluff trails you can get to the town of Moss Beach.
• Mavericks Surf Contest -- Only a few times each year, between November-March when the weather far off shore is just right, waves at Mavericks get up to 50 feet high (in 2007 one was said to have been 100 feet high but typically they run at 15-40 feet). We never go during the Mavericks big wave surfing contest because of the crowds. It's better to follow the contest action via the Internet where you can see the contest up close.

Princeton-by-the-Sea

Pillar Point harbor is a working fisherman's harbor protected by a breakwater. Nearby are several local restaurants, small shops, and beach walks. This town has been a SF tourist destination since the early 1900s.

There is usually plenty of parking near the harbor. Other facilities include a public boat ramp, kayak rentals, surfing beaches, sport fishing & whale sighting tours.

Here are some good local walks:

• Fishing pier area, 1 Johnson Pier off Capistrano Rd -- It is fun to walk out along the pier and check out various fishing operations. You can often buy freshly caught fish right off the boats. In the parking lot are a few older restaurants and small shops, including Mavericks Surfing shop and places that give fishing or whale sight seeing tours.
• New shopping & lodging, Capistrano Rd -- In the last ten years new tourist lodging and shopping has been built near the fishing pier, e.g., Oceano Hotel & Spa and the Harbor Village Shops. Caffe Mezza Luna, 240 Capistrano Rd in front of Harbor Village, is a very cute little place for gelato, pastries, snacks, and coffee.
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  Ebb Tide Cafe, Mirada
  Beach walk east -- This pleasant walk goes east along the shoreline from the fishing pier. As you walk you'll pass by the boat launching pad and then see Sam's Chowder House on the bluff to your left. There's a little nice beach to walk on immediately southwest of here. Continue a little further past the RV Park on your left and on to the El Granada Surfer's Beach. Because of the nice waves influenced by the harbor's breakwater this is an excellent place to learn how to surf. The many surfers you'll see usually park just across Cabrillo Hwy.
• Mirada Surf West walk -- You can continue walking southeast either via Surfers Beach or Mirada Surf West Walk on the bluffs above the beach to Mirada Rd/Magellan Ave. A couple of blocks further on Mirada Rd, just southeast of Mirada Rd/Cortez Ave is Ebb Tide Cafe, 311 Mirada Rd. This is a little coffee shop with a good outside deck to enjoy the ocean from, the best coffee shop view we've seen; however, it is only open weekends. The bluff walk then continues further southeast via the Half Moon Bay Coastal Trail along some beautiful dune terrain.

In Princeton-by-the-Sea our favorite restaurants are as follow:

• Mezza Luna, 459 Prospect Way -- Southern Italian style, excellent food, nice service, fair prices.
• Sam's Chowder House outdoor bar, 4210 N. Cabrillo Hwy -- Great view, good drinks from outside bar open weekends. Better food service outside than inside. Too bad it has become so popular that you often can't find parking, especially weekends.
• Cafe Gibralter, 425 Ave Alhambra, El Granada -- This fine Mediterranean style restaurant is located in El Granada, across Cabrillo Highway from Princeton. It has very nice decor and service but is pricey. Interesting cuisine including a tasty buffalo dish and a squid & calamari appetizer. Open for dinner only and usually requires reservations.

Other popular eating places we visit less often:

• Barbara's Fish Trap, 281 Capistrano Rd -- It is old and novel so we will sometimes take Midwestern visitors there for the experience. However, on weekends lines can be long and the food is good but not great. They do serve excellent calamari which we will usually buy at the outside window and then eat at sidewalk tables nearby.
• Half Moon Bay Brewery, 390 Capistrano Rd -- Decent food, specialty beer, and a small dance floor. Also, it has a big outdoor patio but not a good ocean view. This restaurant is popular and provides a little action at night but feels a little like a chain restaurant.
• 3-Zero Cafe, 9850 Cabrillo Hwy N, Half Moon Bay Airport -- A basic local airport cafe with friendly service.

If you fly your own small airplane the Half Moon Bay Airport is a good destination for breakfast or for a visit to Princeton Harbor. Check walking access first but there is a rear gate to the the airport at the southeast end which goes to the Mezza Luna Restaurant parking lot. If you are a military veteran looking for inexpensive drinks & talk check out the American Legion Coastside Post 474's nice old bar, 470 Capistrano Rd, 650-728-9224, just across the street from Mezza Luna.

We found that shortcut into the airport when going to the Pacific Coast Dream Machines show held the last Sunday in April every year. The various old planes, cars, and other machines at the show are great fun.

California Coastal Trails

The Pacific coast is best seen by walking or biking down the extensive coastside trails near Half Moon Bay. See Half Moon Bay beach trails for details.

Half Moon Bay

Half Moon Bay, Ca, the oldest settlement in San Mateo County, was called Spanishtown in the 1840s. There is not a whole lot to do here but enjoy the small town atmosphere, stroll around, and have a tasty snack. Not a bad way to spend a Sunday morning.

"On" Main Street

The shops and restaurants in Main St's historic business district only cover a few blocks so just walk around and check out what looks interesting to you. We usually park near Main St/Mill St. You'll find a good variety of small local shops including book stores, restaurants, a music store, bakeries, a big feed store, local grocery store. It's a far more interesting place to just wander than at some sterile modern shopping mall.

For an outstanding pastrami sandwich (it's the fresh bread :) check out Garden Deli & Cafe, 356 Main St. You'll have to sit outside at the picnic tables adjacent the street or try the more secluded tables further back. We often enjoy coffee and pastry at the pleasant patio of Moonside Bakery & Cafe, 604 Main St. For higher-end meals consider Pasta Moon, 315 Main St, or Cetrellas, 845 Main St.

Flying Fish Grill, 211 San Mateo Rd (Hwy 92) just west of Main St., has excellent food that is better than what is served in the expensive places with nicer views and decor. Very good seafood cioppino ($14.75), chowder, fish and chips.

In the big old shopping center at the northeast corner of Hwy 92 & Hwy 1 is another favorite known mainly by the local Mexican population -- Happy Taco Taqueria, 184 San Mateo Rd (Hwy 92). It is probably the best and cheapest Mexican restaurant around; decor is minimal but the food is very tasty. This shopping center also has a big, new, but hidden Peets Coffee shop known mainly by the locals.

"Off" Main Street

From Moonside Bakery head east on Miramontes St, past the Methodist church (chapel built 1862) and creek, about 3 blocks to see the interesting old (1857) Graveyard Hill cemetery on your right. The cemetery is not well taken care of but is still beautiful and full of history.

We'll often walk back along Johnston St, from the Methodist church at Miramontes St/Johnston St, to check out local homes. On the way note the tiny historic (1911) 2-cell jailhouse, 505 Johnston St.

Plant life
Plants thrive in this area due to Pacific Ocean weather which is usually mild all year and foggy summer mornings. In fact, flower farming for garden plants and cut flowers is the area's top industry. Giant pumpkins grow well too and during the Half Moon Bay Pumpkin Festival every October compete in the World Championship Half Moon Bay Pumpkin Weigh Off

Very big, beautiful plants are why we enjoy the local residential landscaping all along the Half Moon Bay coast. One of the most gorgeous displays of cultivated plant life I've ever seen is springtime at the Victorian English country gardens surrounding Mill Rose Inn, 615 Mill St/Church St.

Ritz Carlton

The Half Moon Bay Ritz Carlton, 1 Miramontes Point Rd, is a beautiful five star hotel & golf facility. It provides a world-class experience as indicated by it's ranking as one of Tennis Magazine's "Top 50 U.S. Tennis Resorts" and #18 in the 2009 Golf Digest "Top Resort" list.

• Five star hotel -- Great views, fire pits outside on individual patios, five star service. Also a 16,000 sf spa, a swimming pool, tennis courts and two 18-hole championship golf courses. However, there is not a lot else to do on premises but enjoy the romantic setting.
• Outdoor patio and inside bar -- Fantastic views in an elegant setting. For the price of a somewhat expensive coffee, tea, or drink soak it up. Bagpipes and hot chocolate bar at sunset make the patio even more romantic.
• California Coastal Trail -- 25 (normally expensive) parking places are reserved for free public use. Just ask at the entry gate and hope that the parking spaces are not full. This public trail up and down this part of the coastline is also used as a golf cart path.
• Manhattan Beach -- The beach below the bluffs is excellent and uncrowded. Access is via stairs located about 3/4 mile south of the hotel.  You get there by walking the nice golf cart path.

Cowell Ranch State Beach

If you would like a rural, more isolated beach keep driving south, about a mile past the Ritz-Carlton exit at Miramontes Point Rd. Look for a yellow gate to the right which is easy to miss. There you will find a small lot where you can park. Then take the 1/2 mile walking trail west through working farm fields to the beach bluff.

Long wooden stairs will take you down to the beach. But, first look out over the protected seal preserve to the south. Seals can usually be seen there from February-May, with seal pups from March-April.

A new 3 mile Cowell-Purisima segment of the California Coastal trail will start at these bluffs and head south. Last news (8/15/11) was that the bluff trail was washed out about a mile south but you can check that out for yourself.

Pescadero

We love the drive south from Half Moon Bay to Pescadero Beach. The beauty of the landscape + sea + fog often make it almost magical even on bad days. We usually head to Pescadero, a small town two miles east of Pescadero Beach and the Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve.

Partially because of the drive this historic (1856) little town is one of our favorites even there there is not much happening. We usually hang out on the front bench at Arcangeli Country Bakery & Grocery Co (founded 1929), 287 Stage Rd, and enjoy the town's peaceful vibrations while eating their great homemade cheese pastries. Or, we may join the many weekend bicyclists and sit at the picnic tables provided in back. Arcangeli's is famous for their fresh "half" baked artichoke bread so don't forget to take a loaf home.

Other local Pescadero attractions include:

• Duarte's Tavern (founded 1894), 202 Stage Rd -- Try the artichoke soup and olallieberry pie. It can be crowded weekends.
• Harley Farms Goat Dairy, 205 North St -- Buy some excellent goat cheese at the source.
• Stage Road -- Drive north via Stage Rd back to a former stagecoach stop located in San Gregorio, across Hwy 84 from San Gregorio General Store, Hwy 84/Stage Rd. There is often live music at the General Store on Sunday afternoons.

We'll often head east back to the SF Bay area via Pescadero Creek Road to Hwy 84 to Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35). If you are a little more adventurous take Pescadero Creek Rd to Alpine Rd to Page Mill Rd. By the way, the latter trip is a good twisting low-traffic way to bike back to Palo Alto.

Here are some outstanding local bicycle routes in the area. Because they are old and twisty they have less traffic and are more beautiful than more modern alternate routes:

• Get dropped off at Alpine Rd/Skyline Blvd. and then bike down Alpine Rd & Pescadero Creek Rd towards the ocean where you meet your car ride either at Pescadero or Pescadero Beach.
• Ride a local loop using Hwy 1/Pescadero Creek Rd/Stage Rd/Hwy 84/Hwy1. I recommend planning your bicycle trip to travel in the wind's direction (usually south) when you are on Hwy 1.
• Ride a 50+ mile loop from Woodside to La Honda via Old La Honda Rd, to Pescadero via Pescadero Rd, to San Gregoria via Stage Rd, continue north via Stage Rd & Hwy 1 to Tunitas Creek Rd, Tunitas Creek Rd east to Hwy 35 (Skyline), Skyline to Woodside via Kings Mt Rd.

Bean Hollow State Beach

Located 3 miles south of Pescadero Beach, Bean Hollow is one of the best, most interesting beaches along the coast. It actually consists of two beaches, Pebble Beach and the main Bean Hollow Beach, which are connected by a nature trail approximately one mile long. Here are a list of some of the features:

• Nature trail -- An excellent nature trail is provided on top of the low 5-10 foot bluffs. It is very natural feeling yet has wooden foot bridges over gulleys and steps down to the beaches when appropriate.
• Pebble Beach -- The northern beach is made of many smooth small pebbles washed in from the ocean floor. You can see the big pebbles change to small pebbles to eventually sand as you walk along this beach.
• Sand beach -- The bigger southern beach has plenty of sand for sunbathing.
• Interesting rocks -- An excellent variety of interesting rock formations, both in and out of the water, can be seen.
• Tide pools -- A long rocky beach fronts the nature trail with many different places to get into tidal pools.
• Wild life -- On a recent trip we saw 50-100 seals basking about 50 yards off shore on the rocks. Plenty of interesting flora as well.
• Dogs are allowed -- This is one of the few San Mateo beaches where dogs are allowed (on leash).
• Free parking -- Many San Mateo beaches charge up to $10/day. This is a nice exception.

On to Santa Cruz

The drive from Pescadero to Santa Cruz is not as magical in our humble opinion, but still very pleasing. Though mainly scenery here are few special places to check out along the way:

• Pigeon Point Lighthouse (first lit 1872), 25 miles north of Santa Cruz. Classic lighthouse look. Worth a very quick stop to look at the grounds if you've never been there before. Good hostel.
• Ano Nuevo State Park -- These are the world's largest mainland breeding grounds for northern elephant seals. Access is only by guided tour reservation during breeding season 12/15-3/31. No reservations are required 4/1-11/30. Closed to public during pre-breeding season 12/1-12/14.
• Wilder Ranch State Park -- Located just west of Hwy 1 immediately before you get into Santa Cruz. Has historical ranch buildings and nice beach walks. This is also a good place to go for a bike ride. You'll get a real feel for historical coastside ranching.
• UC Santa Cruz Arboretum, 1156 High St, take Bay St north off Hwy 1 right after you get into Santa Cruz -- A very nice arboretum with several plant areas including one featuring hummingbirds.

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Tips on planning a weekend trip to the Half Moon Bay coast

• The times you drive are critical. If you go to Half Moon Bay via Hwy 92 after 10 am weekends you may well get stuck in stop & go traffic. Also, keep in mind that all this traffic heads back in the late afternoon. We can usually avoid such problems by hitting Hwy 92 before 10 am and heading back before 3 pm.
• Weekdays involve many fewer cars. There is some commuter traffic coming from Half Moon Bay and heading back home at regular commuter hours.
• Avoid going on hot weekend days if at all possible. Even if it is foggy on the coast the roads will be packed. On such days local Half Moon Bay residents usually stay at home or take off early for someplace inland.
• We also avoid Half Moon Bay around Halloween pumpkin season (we go a few weeks earlier) and we avoid Pillar Point during the Mavericks Surf Contest.
• The Pacific Coast is often foggy in the mornings, especially summers. The good news is that the fog often burns off and, even when foggy, the weathy is typically mild and the coast beautiful.
• Montara and south is almost always clearer & warmer than foggy Pacifica.
• The Half Moon Bay area, in general, is much less foggy than it was 30 years ago.

Here are some good routes to take if you are driving between the Half Moon Bay coastline and the San Francisco Bay area. Stop and enjoy whereever appropriate.

• Route 1: From Hwy 280/Hwy 92: Drive to Half Moon Bay via Hwy 92 and then head north on Hwy 1 towards Princeton and Montara. From there we keep driving north on Hwy 1 to Hwy 280. If you are headed back to the Peninsula we take a shortcut west in Pacifica via Sharp Park Rd to Hwy 35 then south to Hwy 280.
• Route 2: Go via Hwy 1 from Half Moon Bay to Pescadero. Then take Stage Coach Road back to Hwy 84. Go west up Hwy 84 to Skyline Blvd and north back to Hwy 92. Stop at Alice's Restaurant, Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35)/La Honda Rd (Hwy 84), for a burger with the local motorcycle crowd on your way back.
• Route 3: From Half Moon Bay go south to Santa Cruz via scenic Hwy 1. For a faster route back that avoids the traffic return via Hwy 17 and Hwy 280.

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Take your time and enjoy the many great things to see & do along the Half Moon Bay California coast. It is very close, provides an world class vacation experience, and can give you many days of relaxing pleasure.


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