North Beach
San Francisco Neighborhoods
North Beach, San Francisco, is loved by locals and tourists
alike for its character, variety, and beauty. In fact it has even been recognized in academic studies as one of the very best neighborhoods in America.
North Beach has interesting buildings and terrain along with some of the best weather in the City. For entertainment there is a wide variety of excellent restaurants, coffee shops, and sights. The local inhabitants, many of whom are definitely characters themselves, add to the unique flavor.
The general vicinity most people call North Beach actually includes three somewhat different locales named Telegraph Hill, Little Italy, and the old Barbary Coast. North Beach is also immediately adjacent several other interesting neighborhoods -- Fisherman's Wharf, Russian Hill, China Town, and Jackson St. All of the above makes this area one of the very best places to walk in San Francisco.
Telegraph Hill
Telegraph Hill to the north was used as a signaling post back during Gold Rush days, 1849-1855. A visual marine "telegraph", also known as a semaphore telegraph, on top of the hill alerted city merchants as to what type of cargo ships were arriving via the Golden Gate. On the sharp east bay side rocks were quarried for use as ballast for these sailing ships once they were emptied of cargo. Now the hill is primarily a nice residential area with good views in all directions.Coit Tower, 1 Telegraph Blvd, North Beach -- Coit Tower in Pioneer Park is a favorite tourist stop though less popular with locals. Inside the tower are several murals of local scenes completed in the 1934 and for $4.50 you can take the elevator to the top for a somewhat better view. During peak season there is often a long line of cars driving up Lombard St to Telegraph Blvd so we usually prefer to take a 20 minute walk from Washington Square east on Filbert St to the top.
There are two famous stairways going down the sharp quarried east side of Pioneer Park -- the Filbert Steps & the Greenwich Steps. Both are long and steep, have superb views, and are surrounded by beautiful gardens and Art Deco buildings. We find these stairways to be more interesting than Coit Tower itself.
- Filbert Steps -- These are probably the most famous steps in San Francisco. At the top, they exit Telegraph Blvd east almost directly behind Coit Tower. From the bottom, they head up just west of Sansome/Filbert.
- Greenwich Steps -- Head east down the steps you'll see as you leave the Coit Tower Parking lot. On your way down you will cross Montgomery St, which ends at Julius Castle (a unique restaurant with one of the most romantic dining views in the city ... but, alas, recently it went vacant) to the left. To find the steps again walk right down Montgomery; then quickly turn left and head back downhill where you will see the steps). From the bottom, they start up just west of Sansome/Greenwich. The writer of "The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill" wrote about his interesting SF experiences around here. If you hear loud squawking noises in the air it is probably that same flock of feral parrots he described.
Another even steeper way to get to Coit Tower is from the east. Take the Greenwich Steps described above up from Sansome/Greenwich and then take the Filbert Steps back down to Sansome/Filbert. At the bottom check out the Levi Strauss & Company grounds and the pleasant park across the street at Filbert/Battery. We happen to enjoy the decor at the IL Fornaio Restaurant outdoor patio and Fog City Diner, both nearby, as well. To walk to Fisherman's Wharf from here just head west to the Embarcadero, and then north a few blocks.
Little Italy
San Francisco's Little Italy is filled with pleasant coffee shops and restaurants in one of the best urban neighborhoods in the U.S. Sitting for a while in grassy Washington Square Park is the perfect place to get a feel for the setting.The Italian eating & shopping section is mainly along Columbus Ave and Grant Ave and the several small cross streets in between. Walking is definitely the way to best enjoy this area. Adventure on your own or follow our North Beach Walking Tour. Since eating is one of the best things about Little Italy also see San Francisco restaurants or just pick an interesting coffee shop to try for yourself. Either way you'll have a great time.
By the way, parking may well be a problem. One of the most reliable spots we've found is North Street Parking Garage, 735 Vallejo St across from the Police Station, 1.5 blocks west of Columbus Ave. As a backup try Vallejo St Parking, at 766 Vallejo St adjacent the Police Station; it has shorter hours and the turns are very tight but the view from the roof/5th floor is super :). If you don't mind walking a little we often park for free Sundays on either Sansome St or Battery St just North of Broadway Ave ... then walk west up Broadway to Columbus Ave to North Beach.
The Barbary Coast
The old Barbary Coast portion of North Beach is located south of Broadway to Washington St. and east of China Town to Montgomery St. It is often a bit down and dirty, probably from age :). However, you will find it to be an interesting place to at least visit once.A good place to start, once again, is at the northeast corner of Broadway/Columbus Ave. The Condor Club located here was once famous as the home of Carol Doda, America's best known topless entertainer in the mid 1960s. Now it is much more boring. :)
Head southeast down Columbus Ave towards the TransAmerica Pyramid to City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Ave. This store is a poetry landmark and "home" to famous Beat poets such as Allen Ginsberg (author of "Howl) and Jack Kerouac (author of "On the Road"). It remains as still one of the largest, most interesting independent bookstores in town.
Next door, across the revamped Jack Kerouac Alley is Vesuvio Cafe, 255 Columbus Ave. This lounge is an old and charming former beatnik haunt filled with memoriabilia. Sit upstairs for a great place to hang out and people watch. In the evenings there is a more active bar scene. Be forewarned however; Vesuvio does stink a bit which our upper-crust friends did not appreciate.
Across the street is another peculiar bar with many strange momentos to consider -- Specs Twelve Adler Museum Cafe, 12 William Saroyan Place. It is hard to find ( look for a side door in the nook ) but has a lot of interesting character and characters.
While you are there look into Tosca Cafe, 242 Columbus Ave, an old school bar nearby. It has a classic look complete with old time jukebox and vintage red booths. A house speciality is hot chocolate and brandy. Some love the old time atmosphere, some don't.
Another part of the Old Barbary Coast, Jackson St east of Columbus Ave, provides an interesting and different atmosphere from North Beach. Once a hoodlums' den it now features old brick buildings filled with antiques, interior designers, and art dealers. Eden and Eden, 560 Jackson St between Columbus Ave & Kearny, is highly regarded as a cool boutique for womens wear and home decor. William Stout Architectural Books, 804 Montgomery St just north of Jackson, is one of the best stores on the West Coast for books on graphic design and architecture.
That's a good start to seeing the best of one of the best neighborhoods in the world -- North Beach, San Francisco. Enjoy!
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